The photo above is from last year. Last year was last year. It bears little resemblance to this year. And I'm not just talking about conditions.

Briefly, if you don't recall or you haven't read, Brian and I christened our partnership on ice last year in the Whites. A very few things went right. Mostly, they didn't go at all. It was in the back of our heads on this trip, I can assure you. I'm not going to say that there was pressure to succeed as a result. But I will say that there was a shrieking impetus to not screw up.

The mountain pictured above is Mt. Willard. It's a little hill, only 2,865' at its summit. Most of the routes are one to three-plus pitches. If you look closely, you can make out a right-leaning cleft in Mt. Willard's face. Actually, unless you know what you're looking for, you won't see it. Here, take a look at this photo, then close it when you're done. You're going to want to look for Hitchcock Gully. It is clearly marked in red.

Hitchcock Gully (NEI 3+) is one of the sweetest routes I've ever climbed. Brian and I had gotten close last year. At this point, it's probably appropriate to trudge on out with our [largely related] personal histories with respect to Hitchcock Gully.

Mike's Personal History w/r/t Hitchcock Gully:
1. Climbed the route along with Don Bensman with IMCS guide and local hero Rob Frost on an ice course in January 2000. Fell in love with ice climbing.
2. Got lost trying to find the route, January 2001.
3. Returned the next day, found and attempted the route (1st pitch is mixed, 2nd pitch is ice, 3rd half pitch is mixed) with Brian in January 2001. Turned around after Brian led the 1st pitch due to time, practicalities, responsibilities and fear.
4. Returned a month later with Brian and decided to run up and take a look. The 1st pitch was fat and we considered climbing it, but bailed due to plans.
5. Returned to the route with Brian January 2002 to see if we couldn't do something about #s 2-4.

Brian's Personal History w/r/t Hitchcock Gully:
1. Did the approach to the route with IMCS on an ice course with then-IMCS guide Chad Lewis two weeks after Mike had climbed the route. Took a hard mixed detour to the left of the 1st pitch of the route due to avalanche danger and a general desire to avoid wallowing, then rapped.
2-5. Refer to #2-5, above.

Friday morning brought colder and clearer weather. Nearly perfect weather, in fact. Today would do.

It is nearly impossible to gauge ice conditions in Hitchcock Gully from the road or below the route. We could see a tiny sliver of what could be ice of any thickness, fat to ephemeral, high on the 2nd pitch. The only way to really know was to go up and have a look. And so we did.