Various Routes, South Peak East and West Faces
Pulling up to the first belay on Skyline Traverse. The small, exposed ledge (occupied almost entirely by the rope and Brian's foot) gives one a great view of the psychological crux on Skyline Traverse, the first move of the second pitch. There is about a rope length of sky on the other side of the ledge. The sky is what you want to avoid on the next move. The guidebook describes the sequence thusly:
"...Step off the belay ledge and make very exposed moves to the left in order to reach a wide chimney. ...Let me tell you a little bit about the first move of the second pitch: I personally wet myself. There's not much mystery to it, it's not hard by conventional definition, and you'd best get it over with quickly. About two inches of stone separate you from the ground about 150 feet below. That's the easy part. Then you have to move. Don't look down, pinch hard on whatever you can get (or bear hug if you have the wingspan) and move three feet around the buttress in mid-air. Take Brian's advice to "Start higher than you might think or this will be very hard," but don't start too high like I did or you'll be taking very cautious tippy-toe steps down to said two-inch pocket of stone. To do so is not very comfortable and really does not inspire confidence. Neither does the rusted pin at waist level. No, I didn't aid off of it. Yes, I thought about it. No, even if it didn't pull it wouldn't have helped. Only gumby can help gumby. |